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How Much To Get Camera Fixed On Iphone X

Introduction

Use this guide to remove and supplant the rear cameras in the iPhone Ten. The rear camera assembly consists of two private modules: one wide-angle camera and 1 telephoto camera. Both modules are replaced as a single unit of measurement.

Note: This guide instructs yous to completely disassemble the display cables and remove the display assembly in gild to better access the rear cameras—however, it's possible to remove and replace the rear cameras with the display cables withal connected. Avant-garde readers may skip disconnecting the brandish in club to save fourth dimension, as long every bit the brandish is properly supported and the display cables are non damaged.

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Earlier you begin, belch your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery tin catch burn and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the ii six.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • If the screws are stripped or damaged, replace the screws.

    • Opening the iPhone'due south display will compromise its waterproof seals. Take replacement seals ready before you keep by this footstep, or accept care to avert liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone volition help soften the agglutinative securing the brandish, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in social club to soften up the adhesive underneath.

  3. The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method. If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone X.

    • The next 2 steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip downwards 2 steps for an alternating method.

    • If the plastic depth guess is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove information technology now—it's not needed for larger phones similar the iPhone X.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom border of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Printing both suction cups firmly into place.

    • If your display or back drinking glass is badly croaky, roofing it with a layer of articulate packing record may let the suction cups to adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

  4. Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone. Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need. Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly divide the screen from the rear example of the phone.

    • Don't attempt to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • Skip the side by side 2 steps.

  5. If using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass. If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    • If using a single suction handle, apply it to the lesser border of the phone, while fugitive the curved portion of the drinking glass.

    • If your brandish is desperately croaky, covering information technology with a layer of clear packing tape may let the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very potent record may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, y'all tin superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

  6. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert an opening pick into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    • Pull up on the suction loving cup with firm, constant force per unit area to create a slight gap betwixt the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening selection into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of strength. If you lot're having a hard fourth dimension opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen upward and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

  7. Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place. Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components. Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

    • Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and upwardly the left border of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Don't insert the opening pick as well far into the iPhone, or y'all may cause damage to internal components.

  8. Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

    • Re-insert your selection at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it upwards the correct side to continue separating the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the option very far, or you may harm the display cables forth this side of the iPhone. Insert it just a few millimeters, or about the width of the brandish bezel.

  9. The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips. Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port. The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.

    • The elevation edge of the display is secured with both gum and clips.

    • Slide the opening pick effectually the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or fluctuant the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.

    • The clips volition interruption if you apply too much force. Work advisedly and be patient.

    • Again, don't insert the selection more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may harm the forepart console sensor array.

    • Slide the option to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

  10. Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the forepart panel.

    • If you lot used an iSclack and it'south still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

  11. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. As pictured, make sure the frame comes off with display and doesn't get stuck in the device.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the brandish up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display even so, as several fragile ribbon cables withal connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Every bit pictured, brand certain the frame comes off with display and doesn't go stuck in the device.

    • Lean the display against something to keep information technology propped upward while yous're working on the phone.

    • During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the meridian edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into identify, check the condition of the clips effectually the perimeter of the display and make certain they aren't aptitude.

    • Remove five Y000 screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the post-obit lengths:

    • Three one.one mm screws

    • Ane three.1 mm screw

    • One 3.7 mm spiral

    • Throughout this repair, proceed track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where information technology came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

  12. Remove the bracket.

    • Remove the subclass.

    • The bracket may be lightly adhered in identify. Lift gently simply firmly to dissever information technology.

    • During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and exam all functions before y'all seal the display in identify. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

  13. Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board. Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

    • Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the bombardment connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

    • Bend the connector slightly abroad from the logic lath to forbid it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

  14. Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector. Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Utilise the betoken of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

  15. Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector. To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.

    • To re-attach printing connectors like this ane, advisedly align and press down on one side until it clicks into identify, and so repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

  16. Use the point of a spudger to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket. This connector's recessed location makes it tricky to reconnect. Take your time and align it carefully, then gently press it into place with your fingertip—first one side, then the other. You should feel it click into place.

    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the digitizer cablevision connector upwardly from its socket.

    • This connector's recessed location makes it tricky to reconnect. Take your time and marshal information technology carefully, then gently printing information technology into place with your fingertip—start one side, and then the other. You should feel it click into identify.

    • If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that in that location'south no dust or other obstacle in the socket.

  17. The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place. Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates. Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.

    • The front panel sensor assembly flex cablevision is lightly adhered in identify.

    • Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.

  18. Remove the display assembly.

    • Remove the display assembly.

    • During reassembly, pause hither if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

  19. Remove two Phillips screws securing the camera bracket, of the following lengths:

    • Remove two Phillips screws securing the camera bracket, of the following lengths:

    • One 2.iii mm screw

    • One 2.0 mm screw

  20. Use tweezers to gently fold the small metal grounding bracket out of the way. Do not pull up on it as it is connected to a fragile flex cable. Use tweezers to gently fold the small metal grounding bracket out of the way. Do not pull up on it as it is connected to a fragile flex cable.

    • Employ tweezers to gently fold the small metallic grounding bracket out of the mode. Do not pull up on it every bit it is continued to a fragile flex cable.

  21. Lift the camera bracket from the edge closest to the battery, and remove it. To reinstall the camera bracket, follow the images exactly in reverse: first, lower the outside edge until the tab on the right side slots into the gap between the phone's case and the camera module. Then, hinge the bracket down over the camera module. To reinstall the camera bracket, follow the images exactly in reverse: first, lower the outside edge until the tab on the right side slots into the gap between the phone's case and the camera module. Then, hinge the bracket down over the camera module.

    • Elevator the camera bracket from the edge closest to the bombardment, and remove it.

    • To reinstall the photographic camera subclass, follow the images exactly in reverse: starting time, lower the outside edge until the tab on the right side slots into the gap between the phone's case and the photographic camera module. And then, hinge the subclass down over the camera module.

  22. Use an opening tool or fingernail to disconnect the two camera connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets. Use an opening tool or fingernail to disconnect the two camera connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets. Use an opening tool or fingernail to disconnect the two camera connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets.

    • Use an opening tool or fingernail to disconnect the two camera connectors by prying them straight upwardly from their sockets.

  23. Press the point of a spudger against a small notch on the bottom right corner of the camera module. Gently pry up to lever the camera out of the iPhone.

    • Press the point of a spudger against a minor notch on the bottom right corner of the photographic camera module.

    • Gently pry upwardly to lever the camera out of the iPhone.

  24. Remove the rear-facing camera module.

    • Remove the rear-facing camera module.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the higher up steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn't get equally planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting aid.

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Source: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+X+Rear-Facing+Cameras+Replacement/123895

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